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RED And so it begins/began. After waiting so long to not start writing, the really real night before, it finally seems OK. Because of course that sort of scheduling of the penultimate can change, as it did, and I feel much better for it. If my head and emotions were hurting as much as my back is now, I’d be in trouble. But finally readiness dawned and now I’m sweatily watching ultra-violent Pride TV and worrying about itchy blankets and whether my ultra-light alpine mattress will stick to my skin as much as I seem to remember from the midst of one of the recent all too frequent hangover sofa sleeps. So its time to start fitting the suit to some kind of mirror of aspiration – Basho’s Prologue, what does the fine gentleman have to say? “The passing days and months are eternal travellers in time”. Indeed. And he mentions people who spend their days upon the water in ships, which leads to reflection on this ferry mode of transport I’ve come to like so much. Not quite the parties of previous passages but I still made a friend – Yutaka Ueda, an art student from Nagasaki on his way back to study in Tokyo. I’m hoping he will complete the Nine States theme by sending me something of these fantastic paintings of apartment he seems to do for some kind of appropriate cover. Shinekosei is definitely Japanese mansion sound. My back hurts from heavy luggage stupidity and Yutaka has stopped playing with his specially designed mobile so that’s it for now… Back in Fujii’s place and its like we were never away. Maybe the tatami has been changed but this room still feels like a place where you could sleep to solve all the problems in the world, which is tempting given my very poor snoozing performance last night – one of those stupid nights where one ends up half-dreaming about why sleeping is such a problem. I couldn’t work out if it was the roll of the ship, the scratchy blanket, the churning of my stomach, the jangling of my anticipating mind…Whatever, I’m tired but I’ve made it to sanctuary with enough energy to make big decisions like not taking the guitar and deciding to give Fujii-san the mandala. Which led me to do some worthwhile last chance preparation and run through all physical appendages once again to make sure it all feels right. Met two other solo pilgrims on the wooden-floored bus from the ferry – I’m sure I’ll bump into the older guy from Kagoshima later. He seemed to have a temperament for waiting being a middle school teacher, and also a desire to speak English. This is his second time out so it’d be good to have someone show me whatever ropes there might be to grasp onto. I’m happy with the post shedding stuff weight of my pack but seeing the other guy younger solo guy putting all sorts of tape on his feet before we got off the ferry made me think a bit. But perhaps he’s just in a hurry – some kind of weird skin to time ratio there. Since the yukuri mindset established itself on Monday afternoon, I feel sure that a slow start is the way to go and Fujii-san seems to agree. Its great to see him again and I’m deeply moved by the fact that our staffs are on the mantelpiece of honour. I’ve picked mine up and made a connection with it once again but I’m waiting for some kind of ceremony before claiming it as my second person once again. There is an amazing white on black picture further along the mantelpiece that I don’t remember from before which brings a very real presence of Kukai before me. And has to taught me how to hold the vajra, which I have assimilated with the horse charm from Toji to take the place of keys in my pocket system. A lightning bolt of truth fits in what kind of lock? That’s enough. But Basho number 2, ‘setting forth’ – “though this ephemeral world is but an illusion, I could not bear to part from it and wept.” It could almost be hard to believe that I spent the last night before this so-called mammoth experience on a pilgrimage-like circuit of Tokushima’s slightly stuck somewhere in the past bars. But it all makes sense given Fujii-sans diamond advice to me – “anything is Ok, just don’t give up”. Subsequently my karaoke performance of ‘My Way’ was probably my best yet and brought a genuine round of applause. Generally the whole evening seemed to be an advance repayment of settai, much needed after the millionaire child in the sweetshop experience with the Fujii-sans at Temple 1 earlier. So I’m all tooled up and ready to go, the map for tomorrow doesn’t look too difficult and the evenings experience has reinforced the esoteric character I was hoping to impose on the whole experience. So now hopefully a good nights sleep in this place perfectly designed for it… Temple 2, spanking new nokyocho…Just had a wondrous first encounter with a bus party. They all came and touched a big old tree after my presence next to it had drawn their attention to it. Then the woman who I spoke to ran off from the group to ring a big bell like I had wanted to a few minutes earlier. The carefree-ness of old age – who is gonna tell a lady like that off? Which brings me back to Mr. Fujii, a man who definitely lives without caring so much about what people may think. He sweats while he eats and then ends up with some crazy hair-do after mopping his brow in between vast gulps of beer. I hope I am like that at his age – like the guy who just stopped to talk to me as I’m writing this – admiring my pen…It’s hot, gone for a heavy Gandhian pirate look and had better get back on the road – full as it is with political vans. I am lucky to be in Shikoku of all places during this election given that places like this will be screwed the most by the privatisation – indeed perhaps I wont be able to rely on regular ATM machines like I have to now in the future. Nice tensing! The tinkling of the bells – I’m glad they have them but I don’t. 3 is the magic number – cracking bit of henro-michi through the rice fields to a back entrance I don’t remember. I feel like I’m gonna learn a lot about rice, what with it being nearly harvest season, a good way to think of Fukuoka-san – I’m sure I’ve already seen stray barley in one of the fields, though they are all unfortunately regulated in straight lines. Perhaps a bit like the dude sat across the temple clearing from me – textbook walking pilgrim. But I am happy with my customised hat and too heavy pack. I didn’t realise heat was going to be this much of an issue but everything else feels good. No pathetic breaks yet like in places I remember from before with Reub. Thoughts on the religious graffiti that abounds everywhere – wicked! (as long as it’s a sticker). Not to forget to go to the nokyocho… Buddhist Dogs No teeth Mangy coat But a collar of truth I seem to remember sitting here not quite cursing before. But then there were no peaches. First feet-tending session has been performed, almost concluding an extended break at Temple 5. It seems that I should think that this is where we met Fujii-san but its so different with new buildings I almost can’t be sure. Still a beautiful big tree though and a comfortable late afternoon vibe. Which is perhaps what encourages so many after ‘religious practice’ cigarettes – I’m glad I started so that I could stop but I guess it’d be a lot to ask a truly habitual smoker along with everything else that can be promised during this time. Tissue cold turkey has been un-noticed so far so I guess that’s good. Generally feeling fine – enjoying the samurai shoulders of my henro jacket and have had great company since just before Temple 4 in the form of Jyoji, or George…I wish I could remember the Japanese word for ‘dandy’ that Ko taught me – perhaps its Shibui – cos this guy is definitely it. His walking has something to do with two previous car accidents, though this time is just a preparatory 1-10. A really nice man and I like him even more cos he said my eyes were green (unprompted)…That was after Temple 4, which I wanted to bitch about once again at the time but got happily distracted by the fruit seller with a hat endearingly similar to mine, though to the power of 10. Gonna try and get to number 6 and spend the night in the gate – perhaps with plenty of Basho breaks along the way… Winchester to Canterbury…I&G Made it to temple 6 once again but this time it’s the much more exciting proposition of staying in the entrance gate bell-tower. Its been interesting how memories have come and gone in waves during the day but this place definitely lives up to the clam evening atmosphere I recall. Perhaps I just took a repeat picture but the welcoming pond is truly beautiful. And it was here that I learnt one had to clean one’s staff at the end of the day so I’ve done that and subsequently got excited about the high-power hose shower that awaits me at a time of my choosing. Maybe not yet, there are many things I’ve been meaning to write about all day but there’s been too much else. But most of all how happy I am with the writing I’ve been doing – memories of diary-writing are bad, its interesting to think that there has to be some kind of innocent love involved for me to be able to do it. I don’t know what that means but hopefully I & I will find out. I’m also happy with how well-worn most of my stuff – a very Japanese homage to the art of warming-up. Especially the rounded bottom of my staff but also my shoes, bags, everything has seen good action. It struck me earlier talking to Jyoji how well experienced I am in Asia things as I attempted to write the kanji for Shaolin in the dirt. The other major thing to note is just how much of a country of death this is. (>>>heart palpitations moment, you will remember) The number of graveyards/death memorial places passed has a really strong effect when combined with the state of decay of many of the nearby buildings. Its like whatever cyclicar power it is spreads out like a moss, eating into rock the slowest but very much alive (!) there too…Another cat – saw a classic cat/dog stand-off just before. I am really on holiday – nothing but this for weeks so I will think about applying my pen to the postcards I was not sure about taking for free at Temple 1. - how can one have anything but respect for bus pilgrims… - Marcus baby - Family Winchester/Canterbury So the problem with sleeping in an open-windowed bell tower next to a big beautiful pond is the big beautiful mosquitoes that are gonna come and eat your hunk of flesh. Not too badly bitten this morning after a desperate midnight indoor tent construction – some kind of test was passed and already 2 temples down this morning though no breakfast. The wicked old man who just talked over this offering various advices said I should wait til number 9. He had a great apron – almost definitely customised with a henro at one end and some kind of Greek horse at the other of a mythological procession. Perhaps he was walking to 10 and back before starting his day – the copious prayer beads, teeth and genuine straw sandals implied him to be a man of some religious weight behind the apron and tracksuit. Waiting for a new friend and trying to think of a way to protect my red nose. Big ants everywhere… First slightly confrontational Christian of the trip – he was nice but made me realise how much my Japanese vocabulary is dependent on what I’ve talked about with people before. Henry VIII, some abstract sun and moon theory – all sorts of crazy conversation. No. 8 is all spanking new as well, as expected from the renovations that were happening while here last time. They thoughtfully installed a tannoy for chanting/singing, which sounds great from afar and almost made me feel like something from India. Which is what it is I suppose. My walking partner for the last section, Asushi, is a persistent man from somewhere in the Kanto countryside. He’s said almost nothing about himself so subjects have been limited to the usual “Englishman doing the pilgrimage” thing. Which is not to say I don’t like, perhaps I just want some thinking space to have something better to write here. It’s a difficult balance that will undoubtedly change during the trip. But starting this entry I thought the opposite attitude was confrontational so…A bug on its back is being sized up by an ant…The wiggling’s over, he’s off to get the boys, if he doesn’t get distracted by my food. But gotta eat something proper before next write. May whatever gods involved in this thing one day get it together to properly bless the taking of an after-lunch nap…Much needed because tiredness was beginning to get in the way of not a few precepts and other important thing as well. Angry thoughts? Not quite but a definite opportunity for reflection on my resistance top Asushi-san. Was he marring my foreign specialness? Following me around? Or had I just had enough of continuous Japanese as I sometimes do and need to switch off. He seems to have left the restaurant now so we will have to meet again before any answers emerge. We shared a good ‘Udon power’ joke before I left to doze so those were good parting terms. More insect thoughts – there are infinite worlds taking place around my feet. This general abundance of crawliness (>the bible) has come to be associated with the amazing amounts of rotting food I’ve seen while going along. A great moment of an old woman hoeing next to a man using one of those rice hover-harvesters…Didn’t give Basho much love yesterday so…”what I find most trying is carrying my belongings on my thin bony shoulders” or “there will be hardships enough to turn my hair white”. Perhaps this was part of my problem with Asushi – he seemed too far in the future; worrying about a place to stay/the coming mountains. I guess that is just standard henro talk but I needed a break – I will stay somewhere, the mountains will be hard but ok…And at least there might be some shade form the sun there. And I’m looking forward to a couple of waterfalls scheduled on the map. There might be a possibility of staying at an onsen tonight, which’d be sweet, but the most important thing will be to sleep for a long time. I know what I’ve thought about using this as an opportunity to learn to sleep less but…yukuri, yukuri, bistari, bistari Well, its been a long time since I saw a cow but there was a whole herd of them just up the road. And literally everywhere sells seeds – much more frequent than any kind of fresh fruit or veg, which says a lot. I was gonna say how nice it is to be enjoying big views again now that I’m cutting across the valley but once again I’m amonst weird windy streets. I’ve found it remarkable how many wattle & daub houses I’ve seen today. And the genuine antiquity of some of the vending machines and Geos posters is a delight. So, first big test tomorrow can now be seen ahead. At least I’ve been warned that its up then down then up. The first bank of mountains doesn’t look too bad but the second row must be taller than anything back in England. Nevermind, hopefully I will be full of onsen power…a new skin, new clothes and hopefully some new lease of life to overcome the legs/heavy pack problem. They are expecting me at the onsen – its next to McDonalds. Not! But all the same, an incredible experience (to make Reub jealous) – a bodily sensation so profound that I almost cried. Therefore definitely worth a reasonably harsh hour walking along route 293 looking for the golden arches, experiencing all sorts of pain but I guess that had to happen eventually. This was preceded by my first serious navigational mistake, though it heralded a wondrous Asian view of mountains across a bend in a river at sunset. Hence the distraction and this ‘river’ had a strangeness all of its own. Undoubtedly affected by the current drought and various irrigation interferences, what seems to have been one genuinely huge water highway is now a strange green space with two smaller streams in it. “Weird green space” is the best description possible – like a living skeleton of the river or something…Looks like another night with mosquitoes – meant to say earlier how I specifically dislike the way the sound they make causes you to fear for you eardrums. (>>>learning to let one drink, so tired outside no.12…)But there is other fare for them tonight – this is a serious spot of ‘nojyuku’ culture; beautiful sketches on the corrugated plastic walls of my 2-tatami room, plus osamefuda everywhere. Perhaps about 10 other single male walkers in tonight, which is and makes for an interesting dynamic, which perhaps it would be polite for me to go and ‘foreignise’. The first sweat of the day seems to be the most uncomfortable but what a place for it. Hidden up a magical valley, temple 11 is truly excellent and makes me very excited about the coming mountain days. However, it is a sign of seriousness when you cant see the place you’re going because its in the clouds. Perhaps its just the early morning but everything seems murkier today, adding perfectly to the atmosphere here. Why aren’t there more places like this in England? The Reformation? Lack of mountains? (me not being old/experience enough to have found them….) Whatever, I’m gonna build one. My Lawson breakfast is sitting uncomfortably and I could feel the artificialness as I ate it. Nevermind, hopefully lots of mountain stream water will re-dress the balance. Time to check out the path that has awaited me for so long (the picture)… The air is tasty, the best way to describe the morning – rather harsh initially but then some pack redistribution and expunging (sacrificing) made the physical question easier. And above all the change in atmosphere and temperature has become increasingly refreshing. Been taking it very slowly but its nice to be able to do so and I’ve come to the conclusion that its rude not to stop at any resting place that someone has gone to time and effort to construct. Its nice that my mind is getting quieter too – various themes come and go (survival of the survivors) but on many occasions I’ve just been aware of my breathing. The sounds of insects and birds are great as well, not to mention the serious golden bees. Very funny incident at the first break stop with this henro from Kanagawa getting chased up the road. I guess everyone is ahead of me but will hopefully catch up at Temple 12 cos there is nowhere else to stay. (?, the feeling disappointed). Especially want to talk to this guy from Yamaguchi – we had a good pre-bedtime chat in the strange space next to the Tsuyado. He wanted a beer after his onsen and bitched bout the nokyocho price. And the first thing he said at the mention of Tenjin was Oyafuko so that’s cool. Hey, people coming behind me – the ding of the bells, enjoying the welcoming water just as I did. Blimey, 100s of them…Better prepare. So obviously too tired to write last night…I had been thinking all day that I would reflect something like “Bless the Daishi or whoever codified this pilgrimage for knowing a good initial challenge when they saw one – difficult but not too difficult”. Pah, I was almost pooped on the last stretch and then mercifully the path levelled off… Thanks due to all the “Gambatte/one more effort” signs along the way, all very aptly placed. The path was beautiful, amazing views so that many times I felt like I was walking in the sky. Today should be more gentle downwardness alongside a river but in the midst of rain. And there is a typhoon coming in a couple of days as I just learned during my friendliest nokyocho chat yet. Its interesting to be here early in the morning as not so many walkers are I imagine. Nice to spend a proper first night in the tent, though all the sounds will take a while not to be scared by. And there were definitely touches of altitude in my sleeping patterns – personifying sleeping position persons and lots of other weird shit. Wow, sun coming through the rain and clouds making the world seem silver. Just gotta tend to my feet then its off into the bamboo forest. Great bit of valley culture after a very welcome bowl of ramen. 3 old blokes and the restaurant lady gave my Shikoku-go a severe testing but I left very much among friends. The main guy had a hat saying “clean up the world” which I explained to him and he seemed grateful. These are the first people I’ve seen in hours after a morning walking in mid-air along a road undoubtedly more used by walkers than cars. Which gave it a nice feel and the rest of the day looks equally pleasant valley strolling. Nice little climb at the beginning just to remind me of yesterday and also a little fall that hopefully hasn’t done too much damage to the dodgy knee. The worn down shoe worries realised but what with so much tarmac I’d be paying in blisters otherwise. Got a really good walking rhythm going earlier, which when combined with meditiating on future music plans has put me in a great mood, now super-powered by the first hot meal in a while. And shouldn’t forget the wonderful simultaneous settai at the village shop that didn’t have change for 1000. So, slightly less thrilling country highway walking but lots of interesting little places and a big bonus at the last stop – bananas! All the way from the Phillipines, which seemed further away than normal…Well, almost just died amidst some crazy overtaking but nevermind. I hurt in new places this afternoon – knee jips, nipple aches. And because of all the downness today, sort toe-tips. Maybe a chance of making 13 by 5 so perhaps I should do a bananaman and get going. It seems the mountains have come to an end for a bit and I’m not gonna make it to 13 by 5. But all is not lost, just consumed the best settai yet from a woman who literally chased me up the road and am perched outside a heartingly modern henro resthouse with solar power and various recycling schemes. So perhaps its time to say that the pilgrimage is alive and well – I cant work out whether or not its oK to stay due to some kind of Japanese pun (tokushima-ben) but I’m definitely nearly done for the day. Perhaps getting up earlier tomorrow would be the thing to do to bring an end to these near-misses. Whatever, time for another look inside and maybe a grapefruit. Well, it doesn’t get much closer to the action than this. I am camped literally on the porch of the hondo of Temple 13. Apparently the heavy rain of the typhoon will start tonight so the Korean temple assistant sympathised with my foreign condition and sorted me out a spot under a roof. Probably the most impressive roof I’ve ever been under. Have already surprised a couple of late evening parishioners but its great that they don’t seem overly perturbed. Tonight the noise will be of cars rather than the forest but this would be a good place to hole up for a couple of days if necessary. Do some study and rest the feet, on whose condition I must now check on. Ah, the first cut is undoubtedly the deepest. Very hard to get going this morning, especially in the pissy rain such as it is. But I should be extra grateful to my Korean friend due to the heaviness of the rain that fell last night, thus returning all rivers I’ve seen this morning to something like a respectable state. A good nights sleep was had but all sorts of pain reside. Hence the plan is to do some kind of half-day and stay at a yado nexto 17 in preparation for the typhoon due tomorrow. And it’ll be good to do some washing cos I fucking stink and rest my blisters and knees. Perhaps pissy rain was an unfair description – it’s a gentle, insistent precipitation that gives this place, 14, more atmosphere than perhaps it usuall has. Anyway, time to do the business. Surprise! Writing from the comfy leather chairs of Mr. Fujiis flat after a perfect bath. Very glad I noticed that the path went virtually past the door and the coinciding with the typhoon is almost religious in destiny. Some of the walking in the rain today was pretty tough but a good opportunity for developing that doggish/Dogen/Diogenes mind I’ve been thinking about so much. Of course, I got very wet and the conditions served to distract from the temples somewhere, although being pretty much the only person around enabled me to really get into the rituals. My Hannya Shingyo has taken a hip-hop tinge and I suppose that’s only right and natural. Shared a nice chant with this guy doing its backwards for something the 5th time from Tokyo. His nokyo was beautiful but even he was heading off home because of the typhoon. Which gave the conviction to make this rather comfortable decision. Ultimately, if I’m serious then this is only the introduction completed and it is fortuitous that I can now take stock and recover for a couple of days while the wind blows itself out outside as it is at the moment. Bodily problems only seem to be skin deep – I’m already impressed at how hard some parts of my body have become. The blister on the little toe of my left is of almost Canterbury proportions so gotta take care of that. And the right shoulder needs some love and attention too but hopefully I am well warmed-up for the longer stretches ahead. On that note, will do some stretching… Civilisation brings layers of reflection. Fingers are fat from reading and writing all this but its all good. The typhoon is slow and not hugely perceptible just now but it still feels like I’m doing the right thing. Over yaki-niku and beer (!) last night Fujii-san said that I am right on the major giving-up threshold after 17 but especially having just read all this again, I cant wait to get back out there. Mr & Mrs Fujii seem to be happy with my progress and the generally sensible nature of my thinking. It is interesting how much I measure myself against them their expectations, even to the extent of drinking when I thought I wouldn’t but these are the people that institutionalise and personify the pilgrimage for me – not letting Fujii-san down was a major motivation in returning so its not to be ignored. Lots of interesting henro culture talk last night – about how everyone walking is solving some problem, but then so is everyone, whats mine? – and hopefully I might meet Mr. Fujii again on the path itself in a couple of weeks time as he is back doing weekend to the section I might be on by then. I’m glad to distract him back in this distraction from his new hobby of hang-gliding but who can blame him? A wonderful nights sleep and my washing was hung up when I awoke. Blisters hardening and mind gathering – kind of feeling like I passed the qualifying competition and can now get to the main event. Thinking about Muroto and will do plenty of reading to day to generate enough excitement/anticipation of other places to get me all the way round. Last chance contact with the world then so gonna get on with mobile e-mails, postcards, that world-wide-web… But Fujii-san had other far superior plans – even while I’m not on the path I’m still a henro so this involves performing various duties. I am deeply moved that I got the opportunity to visit the old lady I just had the pleasure of meeting. (don’t write and listen to music) Back in the saddle and its already something of a scorcher. Am very much on the road to Muroto as I’ve wanted to be for however long now – signs say 130 something km. Bring it right on – the rest has definitely done me good and the extra bit of inspiration derived from yesterdays visit is filling me with an unshakable confidence. It must be a truly beautiful thing that I’m doing whereby I, a total foreign stranger, can go into that most serious and intimate of family situations and bring people some cheer just by my presence. The old lady cant have long left but her eyes still twinkle when she focuses them and her cackle is still enough to make everyone around her laugh. And for the daughter who was looking after her it seemed nice to have an exotic henro visitor as well. The walls were literally covered with Kobo Daishi religious products and my osamefuda was placed with honour next to the string of charms tied to the hydraulic bed. Which subsequently made me feel as comfortable as is possible about receiving 100 quid from someone you’ve only just met. Fujii-san gave the impression they had plenty to spare as the family of the company that produce blue LED backlight chemicals but still. But as Fujii-san also said afterwards, their wealth is displayed in culture not possessions so I guess I am privileged to be a part of that. Have just been overtaken so will get on with getting on cos he seemed like a nice chap. But I worry for my fresh-skinned nose. Roast me its hot. Something to do with the hot air behind a typhoon that causes it in the first place I imagine. But thankfully just turned off the highway and in amongst a bit more shade. Maybe there are 3 kinds of path - this kind of quiet windy one where one can feel the henro michi has been at the heart of a community for centuries; the mountain/countryside ones where nothing has really changed apart from the cumulative effect of more and more feet and then the paths overlaid with modern highways where one is treated like a very slow-moving car – all the same neon signs but they slightly loose their effect because one has longer to look at them and then eventually they become hollow. I guess that sums up what I’ve been meaning to say about the shiny election posters for some time now. The action poses/gazes into the future just look ridiculous on a slow viewing and thus the people in them appear to be little more than dolls arrange into certain shapes. Which is what they are I guess in more ways than one and at least there is some level of honesty about it. Ah…a lovely refreshing bit of cold tea settai. The temple is round the corner so will go and say a prayer for the nice lady. 19 is definitely the most impressive place in recent memory – the bellrope being the centrepiece but a nice little big pagoda as well. All henro enjoying an early afternoon break have just been given a bag of popped rice by a man with a great beard. I seem to have been caught up by a fresh group of walkers who kept going a little longer into the typhoon but they seem to be feeling the pain. On this note I think the big blister burst back in the bamboo forest where I had to clear the debri from the path to get through. Which felt good, like I was doing my part in the preservation and ‘living’ of the path. Which the man with the beard has obviously done a lot of because he just gave me his gold fuda. And now hes talking about tents so I might go and join in. So I did and learnt that the place I want to stay at no longer exists. Nevermind, I’ve got these excellent coconut biscuits that I think taste better tepid, therefore ideally suited to the job. And the guy from Kanazawa who got chased by a bee just gave me a Werthers Original in exchange. If only he knew all the connotations… Ended up camping in a weird hinterland between rivers here in the middle of the valley leading to todays mountain temples. Worries about the ready-to-flood rush of water not too far from the tent were soon overcome by sleeping necessity. The blanket mrs Fujii gave me is a lovely addition and I feel refreshed but slightly worried about the foot situation. Probably went too far last night looking for this place so as to meet the 2 other henro I’d seen during the day and finally made plans with at the takoyaki hut. Whatever happened to them I now have nasty between the toes blisters developing on my left foot. Hopefully no tarmac today should help but its not a good development. I limp a bit like the stray cat drinking for the puddle in front of me. Not that it needs to cos already 3 people have been along this morning to feed and water this grey chap and his friend. Had better get on climbing this mountain that sits picturesquely in the middle of the valley. I’m sure my attempt to photo-capture its splendour in the sunset last night will have failed but I’m equally sure I will remember this place and its spoiled strays. Don’t know what the problem is this morning but this climb is much harder than I expected. Perhaps there is no problem and I just got caught up in the Ubermensch mentality of the German I met at the bottom of the path. Stefan is planning to do the whole thing in 32 days…Which raised some interesting thoughts in me about who I am to judge about him missing the point/being blasphemous. But, to put it another way, I don’t think hes gonna be at the temple waiting for me as we vaguely suggested upon parting. Wow, how many readings possible for that sentence, ummm… Perhaps one of the reasons for slow-going is the state of the path following the typhoon. I think the best description would be slightly rotted, like walking in a riverbed at times and hence difficult to get a rhythm going. But of course I am always slowest in the morning til the first sweat settles in and there are extra toe/blister issues to contend with just now. Perhaps some more fundamental taping will be required at the temple which I feel just about able to get to now. On top of the world in all senses – this place is wonderful and the sun has just emerged to complete the moment. The smell of all the fallen pine branches combined with the well-worn nature of the buildings makes for a perfect religious atmosphere and I would love to stay here longer. It is nice that today will be spent in places where Kukai definitely went and practiced – the next temple is in Sankyo Shiki so I’m very excited to see what its like so will get on but just wanted to write this as an excuse to stay here a little longer… Now that I’m back in the mountains, perhaps its time to reflect on the tolkienesque features of what I’m doing. I wonder what j.r.r. would have or did make of Japan. Just had lunch in something that looks like the Golden Hall from afar but up close is an increasingly overgrown very white elephant. At least it was cool. I seem to be doing more sitting than walking today and have just scared myself by looking towards the back of the map book. Will I get lonely? Bored of doing the same thing every day? Whatever, time for some Basho inspiration and I also should have mentioned that the next place is Great Dragon Temple so what more motivation could I need? So this is what a Great Drgaon feels like. I was thinking during numerous stops on the way up that dragons are the ultimate intangible beast (>I&G logo), some kind of consensual creation that can only rarely be believed in – thus its specialness. This place is filled with thoughts of that scale, even the candles & incense come in extra large 500 yen sizes. And the upper temples, among which I am sat on a very English bench writing this, are enthroned by some of the biggest most beautiful trees I’ve ever had the pleasure to be in the company of. This is the first place where I’ve been struck with the dangerous thought that if I ever wanted to spend a few months/years/lifetimes on a mountain, it would be hard to find anywhere better. The climb was quite harsh but they have thoughtfully installed a ropeway so that everyone can enjoy the majesty of this Great Dragon. I’m off to breathe fire. Perhaps there will be few happier moments than discovering this wondrous road-side restaurant in which I am now sitting. It is probably only special because I had given up hope of finding it but then at the prompting of the strangely uncommunicative henro I first met yesterday morning looked further down the road and had a mirage-maybe moment as the udon sign took form before my eyes. Hungriness was getting serious and any solution would have involved a lot more walking on splodgy blister-burst feet so I might spend the night on the nice padded outdoor carpet stuff next to the other henro up the road. Its been a hard but ultimately satisfying day and itd be nice to try and be-friend this guy, though he seems very resistant…But beyond all this wondering, this is a wicked restaurant – the walls are covered with interestingness and there is an atmosphere that a few storms have been enjoyably sheltered from under this roof. I think it is the open proximity of the guys living space to the restaurant that gives this impression – plus the many boxes of empty Asahi bottles. Smells like my mountain noodles are nearly ready so… And after that things just kept getting better, as witnessed by my having just finished a tasty bento breakfast following a night spent in a converted mini-van. So, some kind of jackpot was hit – the van obviously wasn’t hyper-comfortable but I slept as well as I do recently with the waking up between midnight and 1 going “what the fuck?”. And nothing less than silk feather cushions for my sweat-stained pilgrim hide – which made it more difficult to rise this morning but extra time is afforded by not having to wrestle with the tent poles and re-pack everything. Perhaps the best news is that there appears to have been no significant worsening of feet condition - something I was worrying about given the many miles of tarmac ahead on the road to Muroto. Today should be quite gently short with the promise of onsen and a stay in another converted vehicle at the end. But its already getting hot so time to move. A theoretically flawed but satisfactory pre-emptive lunch sat on a bend in one of these amazing nothing roads that will be entirely overgrown in a few years the way things are going. Leading to reflection on that whole ‘concrete industrial complex’ thing – perhaps the major thing I have realised on this trip so far, extended from Takeda, is that it will all be overgrown, the damns will break etc. etc. And why not in a few years will people not marvel at a section of late 20th century henro michi? As cars go out of fashion then these paths will go back to being as wide as a pair of feet, or pair o wheels. Just saw 2 guys on scooters, slightly ridiculing the motorcycle trend I was gonna comment on at some point. You may as well ride a bike as a scooter…But I am enjoying walking and there is something of what I perceive to be a sea breeze helping out today. Very looking forward to seeing the Pacific and maybe even splashing about in it so I will get on with making that wish a reality. After a long quite irritating time waiting for it, I am finally very moved by the sights of the sea. Beautiful coves and bays interlinked by seemingly never-ending winding roads where one must overtake amazing obachans & their buggies, on their way like crabs to the sea to catch a glimpse of the place where the day has been best. I could sit here a long time and wonder about the fantasies of distant pure lands it would be possible to conjure from this view. And to think I am only a day from the mountain majesty of the Great Dragon. I have to find somewhere in Europe with that kind of balance, and forests as well, so I’m gonna resume the reoad and think more about the West Coast of Ireland. Well, I’m not sure how it can get much better than this. Finally made it to the converted bus to and from henro heaven, which is an incredible thing in itself, but even better its only other occupant is a man whose name I’ve forgotten amidst a wide-ranging conversation that has gone on I don’t know how long. He has the perfect beard for the situation and not enough teeth for the buts I offered him whilst possessing huge amounts of henro knowledge (being sat there in pants and slight embarrassment as I walked in…). I think I understood correctly that hes aiming for 1000 days on the road and has 200 and something left, and therefore was very much in agreement with the slowly, slowly mindset. Which was amply rewarded on the sea-route into the excellent little town that is Hiwasa. Countless incredible postcard views and much more importantly an understanding of the scale of the Pacific and the role it plays in this whole thing. I’m clearly tired now so will have to elaborate on that after more thinking and when more words are available in my head. So for now I will fall asleep next to the drivers seat and hopefully dream like the sea turtles there are seemingly so many of around here. While the sacred name cards flutter from the ceiling in the breeze of the very welcome fan at my feet. So this is my last day in tokushima, numerically I am over a quarter way done and it feels just about right to be moving on to the next stage prefecturally speaking. Yesterday morning I had the reality check of realising that just getting up and walking everyday now seemed like the most natural thing in the world. There was even a moment last night when my bag no longer felt heavy and this was repeated this morning before I filled up on water. Takahashi Susoo and I am are just saying our goodbyes… So we did and it was a real delight to spend those moments with him at the temple looking out over the bay. I don’t know how old he may be but his pace is of a man who has taken all the hurrying out of life. Maybe he will get about as far as this today – have been putting in some serious K’s this morning given that everything is continuing to feel good in motion. There is the extra motivation of being able to count down the distance to Muroto on the Route 55 markers. I’m very happy that the name of this road is a multiple of 11 and a plausibly religious one at that – 88-33=55. which leads to the functional noting of at least two other pilgrimages that I’ve criss-crossed along the way. Whatever it is that inspires so much pilgrimaging, it has turned out to be perfect henro walking weather today. The heavy rain gave me the shower I needed and now there is a comfortable cloudy coolness that almost suggests the closeness of autumn. I’m very happy for my peeling nose…so will get back going while the skin going is good… Ah, finally made it back to some salty smells. There is a school of surfers trying to make something of a rather stingy swell in this little bay only reachable by tunnel. Plenty of those so far today – I most enjoyed the one with the motion-activated lights for a separate henro path but the one just now was a little too narrow. It would be a stupid way to go – like one of those ‘prodigy’ crabs I just saw all flattened out like a crustacean/crushed asian dried flower exhibit. Just got disturbed to learn that this is japans best and most famous surfing spot. So I take it back about the stinginess – occasionally there are good waves and the guys riding them are definitely impressive. Was gonna write about a nice cup of settai tea I just had with some nice volunteer ladies but I have been here a while and been re-overtaken by the guy it seems I am in some kind of long-term not-at-all-really race with. Saw him again this morning at Lawson and there he was waiting at the tea stall. Hes 20, from maebaru/saga but now saitama – its been 4 separate days now we’ve bumped into each but ive yet to get a name. but its still nice to have some slightly distant company and I imagine we’ll be in the same place tonight cos he seems to have a taste for service stations. Back to the race… A beautifully timed german hut karaoke café type thing. I think that’s probably the best stint I’ve yet to put in and am gratefully enjoying the way my legs seem to now be able to generate a momentum of their own and the shoulders no longer complain. Last break must be about an hour ago at the kobo daishi fish place where bought some mackerel back to life. Still seems to be an important act to a lot of people cos it was clearly a place grown wealthy on selling charms and car loads of people turned up while I ate the last of my popped rice there. Spots of rain eventually came to not much and now I am sat pondering what this place must be like when they get a full crowd in and the karaoke machine pumping and whether or not I can make it to the slightly too distant onsen. Its either that or a dip in the sea cos the feeling of the smell is getting too bad and there have been too many tempting beaches along the way. So, waiting for some curry, a happy coincidence of sand or another test of late-in-the-day strength. Cleanliness, godliness, all that and more as I’m sat in some kind of posh bathing resort after a wonderful washing. Perhaps kukai didn’t have the use of a Jacuzzi but so what. A fine-feeling end to a good day – helpfully pointed in this direction by the extremely tasty curry lady as I would like to think was some kind of gratitude for giving her piano a good playing. There was also the guy who was all about ‘ki’ who fully demonstrated the effectiveness of the Japanese headband far beyond the “no sweat in the eyes” function I had been appreciating up til now. Hopefully things will continue on the level of the elaborate chocolate ice cream I just indulged in and I can just tootle down the hill to a very comfortable looking camping area. With this skin feeling I am positively looking forward to a night in the tent after the previous automobile nights. So, time to descend to sleep… Soon my dreaming coming soon I’m dreaming it coming soon Ugh, all a little horrible this morning – not a good nights sleep with a miraculously appearing resident mosquito on the jagged concrete and subsequently everything is under-powered right now. But I guess a good warning against complacency – I’m sure there were times yesterday when I thought it was all gonna be easy from now on. In need of all sorts of inspiration it seems – a different sentence pattern at least but this feeling also highlights the slightly goal-less nature of today with no temples involved. Should be doing the evening stretch beside the seaside so there must be a chance for some beach-camping and a refreshing sunset dip. So will set about motivating myself towards that aim. As I suspected might be happening at the time, I fear the onsen might have softened me up too much so I hope re-acquiring that level of toughness doesn’t take too long. Finally made it to kochi-ken though now im here all I wanna do is nap. Delayed by a pleasant stop at a place something akin to dolphys by the sea. The very talkative lady sprung a surprise settai in letting me have everything for free and I even got to use the internet. So spirits were brightened but generally I think today is gonna be an episode of hard slog to get as close to muroto as possible so I can arrive at the first temple before 5 tomorrow. Its hot in a nasty way so that it seems there is no shade anywhere and I think the main thing that will keep me going is the prospect of a refreshing evening dip in the sea. But this bus shelter might be the best available palce for a siesta for a while so to nod—land I go. Civilisation is nearly behind me on the nothing road to muroto and feeling quite grateful cos I’m really not in a mood to talk to anybody. Hit quite a wall of emptiness back at the surfers café where I realised how strange, smelly and stupid-looking I was compared to everyone enjoying a Sunday afternoon at the beach with their mates. Not that surfing culture really means a lot to me but it made me miss my Fukuoka mates and look at old photos on my mobile. But I guess this mental hardness to match the physical difficulties is to be expected – I have after all entered the hardest dojo of practice towards achieving enlightenment so I gotta love that pain in my shoulder that sometimes makes me groan aloud and that ever-increasing sore-spot in the middle of my back that occasionally stings me. Its just head down all the way, I really don’t know where my focus is at all and whether this is just the result of a bad nights sleep or part of the grander plan. Whatever, as soon as I get under 30k from to Muroto I’m jumping in the sea and saying goodnight as quick as possible. Not an experience to be repeated in a hurry but alls well that ends well right? Which might be a pre-emptive judgement given that my body and most particularly my feet are nine states of fucked this morning after a severe after-hours session which led me here, woken by a hot sun and the teacher of a tiny school after I’d finally camped in their playground. She didn’t seem to mind but wanted me gone as soon as possible. So now I am contemplating exactly what did happen last night from the coolness of a bus stop I would have given not an insignificant amount of anything to find some 12 hours ago. Of course I should have stopped where I said I was going to on the phone to the parents but then perhaps that just served as another reason to go on. And then there was the very gratefully received water spring/shrine, which quickly descended to my trying to magically transcend padlocks and chains in the midst of a mountain by the sea downpour. But a good mental challenge all the same and the decision to push on came from nowhere. Perhaps my favourite moment was perched in front of some vending machines with only the crash of waves of darkness in either direction. Or very seriously considering camping behind a barrier for a road sign that would have meant another night on tarmac. But I had good sleeps where I ended up and am now finally headed into the sea… Even something as simple as a morning paddle drew blood on this road to the hook of trouble but everything is going well this morning sat in yet another excess comfy chair that people seem to like to donate to public places in these parts and admiring the clouds making beautiful shapes in their reluctance to edge out over the sea. Am very grateful for said clouds cos the sun is mighty hot but at least there is the breeze. Another surfing spot just up ahead so maybe another nakata-esque drinking performance beckons… 3rd time lucky with the lunch-stop – something like an English country cottage transported to this wildest of Japanese coasts. It is very nice and cool. Major highlight of the day so far was meeting some kind of Daishi follower on a bike – he had a fantastic necklace of seashells and a well-worn staff in the basket. I don’t think I understood more than 10% of what he said but his smile and good-nature still made it a delight to encounter him. Because of the long-distance I have come, the signs saying 10km make my goal seem deceptively close. I will be happy of a change of scene and pace and am hoping the atmosphere of kukais cave will overwhelm me to the extent of taking some kind of half-day tomorrow. I definitely need to do some washing but perhaps todays attire is the optimum henro wear so far. The khadi is super-cool and I caught a great glimpse of myself in the midst of frustration at the first holidaying diner looking extra Gandhian pirate with the shoulders of my henro shirt. Chopsticks ok? Yes please… so what do I think about while walking? Increasingly little – this stretch has been really good for knocking the stuffing out of my head. My mind does flit from one thing to the next, such as a piece of music or person or some future plan but I increasingly find these thoughts have nothing to cling onto and therefore just fade away as quickly as they come. So the disk-formatting I was hoping for seems to be taking place and it’ll be interesting to start being stimulated by things again in the temples of the next few days. I haven’t really got close to kukai yet but I guess just round the hill under which I am now sitting is where it all starts/ed. Enough aquarius for one day and definitely camping before it gets dark tonight… a nice km sheer climb to start the morning brings me finally to temple 24 after 3 days of walking waiting. Impressively it has its own sumo basho and that lovely hill-top air I’ve been missing. Last night was spent well in the grounds of the shrine at the base of the path. An evening run-in with a snake perturbed me a little but once again eventually tiredness took over. It is amazing this completely exhausting myself everyday – surely there will be tipping point where I either stop being exhausted or I can be exhausted no more and break down. Which is what I worry my left knee might do some time soon. A new level of pain was reached stumbling on the rocks around Daishis cave and bathing pool. Which were grand places, especially liked the crabs and bats but rather disappointed with the size and roar of the waves. Nevermind, hopefully there will be other opportunities today as I wander around the cape doing not so many k’s. but now finally a bit of prayer… waiting for washing on this charming little street running into the ‘city’ of muroto. Found my way through the tiniest of entrances to a wonderfully chaotic food shop just now and this cleaning place continues the theme. Fish are drying up and down the street and everyone is very interested in shade. Today is definitely gonna be a shady day before beginning the next long road to Kochi. My knee miraculously felt better after a refreshing breakfast in a place with so much natural light is made Over the Rainbow sound entirely appropriate. Have finally written my postcards and it will be good to get onto the next stage after various feelings of stuckness translating into a complete inability to believe I might finish this thing. The german was here a couple of days ago so I guess my pace cant be too bad. And such worrying is unhealthy anyway so I will get on with the ice drink I have just been given… before I forget, an amazing range of nokycho people today – the first guy on a feed-drip hardly able to talk but still capable of gracefully clear calligraphy. And then the guy just now, appropriately at the sailors temple, with one of the most impressive beard and bicep combinations I’ve ever seen. We had a good chat and I liked the temple very much – the 1000s of statues in the hondo one could actually walk around, holding shipwheels or wheels of dharma depdning how you look at it. Seems like Koizumi won the election so another cycle finished there – I had lots of thoughts about the ceremonial/permission seeking nature of the campaign but they too have faded now. But I’m glad there are no more politeness-competition cars. Just a little walk to the next temple and then settling down early in a road service station and perhaps even a head-shave…but before then, okonomiyaki. (liked cooked things) its nice to enjoy a sunset after so long on the wrong side of the mountains. Apparently this is the start of some famous sunset coast, Daruma – a place where locals like the guy I just talked to make a walk specially for the spectacle. We met before on a lovely bit of henro michi from 26 that reminded me of the Purbeck Downs as much as possible with rice fields and other exotic things about. Which was very welcome after my mistaken taking of the car route up, subsequently causing sever internal examination of when I will fully learn to respect the distance of a kilometre. 27 of them scheuduled for tomorrow so will try and be up early and in the sea 20 paces away for a hyper-genki days walking. The chance of some company with this old local guy whos been giving me unreturnable settai at various points during the day. We had a good talk about sumo though, which generally seems to be extra popular around here as part of the whole fighting dogs mentality I guess. And now the world has turned grey – will try and finally assist myself in remembering the last chance sunrise I somehow roused myself for this morning but I doubt I will fully remember. But that’s ok, the sun is always going up and down. Clouds like a musical score painted across the sky. Filling in civilisation details of distant fluffy lands where weeks are based on geology but flat planes are circular…robin, everyone you speak to is a fisherman. Old male pilgrims walk around topless easily. Every type of cloud fills the sky in perfect ever-changing formations. Distant lands form on the horizon and you can speculate about the gods or goddesses who live there. And the sun? the sun bathes in the sky longer than anywhere I’ve ever known, not wanting to let go of all the colours its create. But the waves have heard the sky sounds and will keep up the flutter all night while I sleep. The jagged rocks stopping you from disturbing the picture but you still want to. Still water swilling water, all in motion, enough ripples to form a net to pick up an ocean, the biggest of sea words. And this truly is. A very pleasurable stroll along the old henro michi parallel to route 55 with all sorts of details to enjoy at this time on a Wednesday morning. A baby in a cot amongst crates of eggs and sacks of rice, a granddad fisherman shepherding two children in red behaving like ducks, the impossibly low height of some of the buildings. Generally a charming atmosphere of some kind of old rustic life, aided by the very moody nature of the weather. Which makes for good walking conditions and things are feeling good. Almost got carried away stroking the nice smooth skin on my biggest blister this morning. The tent survived a good rain examination and I was woken by a woman speaking Japanese in a way I’ve never encountered before to her equally strange-sounding dog. But gonna get on with finishing the grapes given to me by the lady who made me happy by saying how early it was, which felt like a compliment from people in these parts. Perhaps I am nearly becoming a proper henro… So perhaps this is the most challenging moment yet, or at least it feels like it. Maybe that exhaustion tipping point I was talking about has been reached. There is very little left in the tank and looking at the end of the day climb awaiting me I feel sick and almost want to cry. I am seriously considering finding a place to stash stuff to be picked up on the way down tomorrow cos I simply cant believe I’m gonna make it to the top feeling the way I do at the moment. I hope mariko wasn’t lying all those times she said sweet bean past gives you energy cos I just ate a bunful and am about to head into the last of my biscuits in a desperate scramble for fuel. There is a steady stream of cars going back & forth and if one were to offer me a lift it would be extremely difficult to say no. but perhaps that would be ultimately make me feel sicker, have just gotta get some small targets and rhythm established and then hopefully I will get there in time for what should be a fantastic view of the sunset. The woman on the phone only said “around 5” for arriving for the Tsuyado so I guess I’ll have to see how far I can push it. It is un-naturally (!) hot for this time in the afternoon and it has been along day for a while now. Daishi give me strength. Well, I made it to be rewarded by a tsuyado better than I could have ever imagined and another blessed meeting with nishigawa san who just did his beautiful thing over the page. Most of all it is great to be staying in temple grounds, let alone the futon & tatami room, mountain spring water and generally perfect atmosphere. Not the mention the after-hours nokyocho and special postcards I just got given. So my efforts were rewarded – as the wise man said at temple 5 “the problem is not in your body but in your mind” when talking about shoo-sanji but obviously applicable to all. Though at times my legs felt as if they almost weren’t there at all and at every break my body would enter that weird spasm state for a while where you don’t know what you can do to make it better, like I remember feeling sometimes when ill, and you just have to let it pass. And then there were moments of tingling that were perhaps the endorphins I remember hans talking about with regard to marathons. Whatever, it felt so good to reach the top and I had some magical meditative moments with Dainichi Nyorai before they left for the day and understood something Vitaly said about just living on the power of the sun for a week. And best of all, my most compassionate mosquito moment yet as I let a big dude do his thing just above my eye, filled as it was with pure light. I could almost feel it taking the energy through me. I’m back to flicking and scratching now but perhaps the mossies are one of the defining tests of this kind of lifestyle and I’ve been meaning to wonder about kukais thought on the subject. But for now I will head inside this luxurious building and have tea & cake with mr. mishikawa. So, some final thoughts on this special place and the end of this notebook. I hope there is some kind of meaningful coincidence. Nishikawa-san said that this is as hard as it gets and he seems like a trustworthy bloke. Took a photo of him as he left before 6 this morning but I think it will struggle to capture the bright friendliness of his face. Maybe we will meet again tonight but it had the feeling of a last good bye as he bestowed many Daishi blessings on me. I feel ready for anything today after the euphoria of last night. I could even stomach the 6th inverted toe blister bursting, as it surely must soon. Perhaps the next downward stretch will do it. But must first note down to see the film “Road 88” – it looks like the kind of over-earnest young women shouting into the sea kind of overly melodramatic thing I’ve yet to learn to like from the post but would undoubtedly be interesting. I wonder how much they feature blisters… Last Modified 10/23/05 7:44 PM |
